Charles James: Beyond Fashion

The exhibition examined the career of legendary twentieth-century Anglo-American couturier Charles James (1906–1978). It explored James’s design process, specifically his use of sculptural, scientific, and mathematical approaches to construct revolutionary ball gowns and innovative tailoring that continue to influence designers today. The retrospective featured approximately sixty-five of the most notable designs James produced over the course of his career, from the 1920s until his death in 1978. The exhibition spotlighted and analyzed the resplendent glamour and breathtaking architecture of James’s ball gowns. On view were fifteen dramatically lit, iconic James gowns including the “Clover Leaf,” “Butterfly,” “Tree,” and “Swan” from the late 1940s and early 1950s. Analytical animations, text, x-rays, and vintage images told the story of each gown’s intricate construction and history. The exhibition provided the technology and flexibility to dramatize James’s craft. A pathway wound around a cruciform platform where the evolution and metamorphosis of James’s day and evening wear were explored in four categories: Spirals & Wraps, Drapes & Folds, Platonic Form, and Anatomical Cut. Video animations focused on the most representative examples of his approach were shown on monitors, and live-feed cameras detailing the backs of garments were projected on the walls. The exhibition displayed ephemera from James’s life and work, including drawings, pattern pieces, dress forms, jewelry maquettes, scrapbooks, and accessories.